For those doing it for the first time…
Different manufacturers, various types and models of climbing shoes available on the market and a flood of information emphasising the advantages and disadvantages of various solutions… All of this means that the first approach to buying climbing shoes can be quite a challenge for a beginner. However, you only need to pay attention to a few basic parameters so that the first climbing shoes turn out to be exactly what you need.
Five features to bear in mind when choosing your climbing shoes
1. Shape
When you look at climbing shoes, you will quickly notice that the toe-to-heel line is not straight. A characteristic bend towards the big toe of the foot is visible. The same can be seen in the profile of the sole – the toes are clearly pulled down and the heel is strongly accented. Climbing shoes are designed with a certain degree of asymmetry, forcing a specific arrangement of the user’s foot. The most aggressive profiling can be seen in professional shoes.
The problem is that a novice climber will not only not know how to take advantage of such a shoe geometry, but will simply not last too long in shoes made for professionals. So it can be said that the first climbing shoes should be as similar as possible to the shoes in which you walk every day. The best choice will be models with a low degree of asymmetry, which will ensure a fairly natural foot placement and the highest level of comfort.
2. Size
When trying on climbing shoes, it is worth remembering that they are called le scarpette in Italian. Why? First of all, this means “little shoes”, i.e. small, tightly fitting ones. Secondly, climbing shoes are worn without socks – and that is how you should try them on. Also, remember to cut your toenails!
The length of the shoe is closely related to its degree of asymmetry. Aggressively profiled models force the toes to bend. There are three methods to match them:
- comfortable = foot length +5 to +10 mm
- adjacent = foot length +/-5 mm
- professional = foot length -5 to -10 mm.
The best choice for a beginner climber will be a slightly looser, but more comfortable shoe. However, bear in mind that the length of the foot is not only one dimension – its width and height in the instep are also important. A well-selected first climbing shoe should cover the foot just like a sock – tightly, but without unpleasant pressure or rubbing the ankle and Achilles tendon. That’s why you should not stick to your shoe number too much. Actual shoe sizes may vary between manufacturers and models, and a well-chosen climbing shoe is the one that will best hold your foot.
3. Materials
Natural leather and synthetic materials are used in the production of climbing shoes. In the market you can find footwear made entirely of one material or, for example, a combination of a leather or suede outer layer with a synthetic lining. The type of material used to make a climbing shoe will affect its true fit to the foot.
Natural leather footwear stretches and changes its size, adapting exactly to the dimensions and movement of the human body. Unfortunately, after some time it loses its original geometry. Synthetic shoes are stiffer – they maintain their original size and profile regardless of the circumstances, but they do not match so well with the mechanics of the owner’s feet.
Leather shoes require greater precision of movement from their wearer when climbing and greater care for cleanliness. Natural leather is more susceptible to mechanical damage and requires more attention during cleaning and maintenance. Synthetic shoes are able to withstand more. They are also much easier to keep clean. That’s why, in most cases, they will be a better choice for a beginner climber.
4. To lace up or not to lace up?
A well-fitted climbing shoe should hold your foot on its own. For this reason, many users do not pay special attention to whether their shoes are slip-on, Velcro or lace-up. In practice, the difference comes down to whether we prefer the most accurate fit to the foot, or we care about the possibility of quickly putting on and taking off our shoes. Velcro shoes are a compromise between the two – that’s why we recommend them to beginners.
5. The more expensive, the better?
It’s not the equipment, it’s the technique that makes the player. At the beginning of the climbing adventure, cheaper shoe models offer several significant advantages over more expensive types of shoes for more advanced athletes:
- First and foremost, they are more comfortable. They work better during longer training sessions, which helps to master the basics of the climbing technique. Shoes that are profiled too aggressively cause discomfort, which can discourage training.
- Secondly, they are usually made of more durable materials. Although thicker and harder sole and rubber are considered less “sensitive”, they forgive more of the mistakes that a beginner climber will certainly make. Cheaper shoes wear out more slowly and are less susceptible to mechanical damage.
- Thirdly, as you progress and develop your skills, they will allow you to figure out what style of climbing you like the most and what you expect from your next pair of shoes.
- Fourthly, if you come to the conclusion that climbing is not what you like the most, it will not entail too much unnecessary costs.
A tip for advanced climbers
The purchase of a second or subsequent pair of climbing shoes usually results from the development of the climbing technique and the specific needs posed by the characteristics of particular routes and climbing styles. When choosing advanced models of climbing shoes, it is worth paying attention to the details that may turn out to be crucial for specific types of activities and techniques.
Rocks
Rock climbing poses a wide range of challenges to footwear due to the varying terrain. The most advanced athletes adjust their shoes to the specific types of substrate on which they climb:
- In holes, that is, small rock openings that accommodate only the toes or big toe, shoes with a strong asymmetry, high tension and curved toe will work best.
- Climbing grips require strong support on the inner or outer edges of the shoes and a stiff midsole.
- In the case of cracks and crevices, the grip of the side parts of the shoes and the protection they provide to the feet against abrasion is important.
- On smoother boards, the most important is the elasticity of the midsole and the adequately high viscosity and sensitivity of the rubber used.
Bouldering
While bouldering on a climbing wall or moonboard is associated with using higher steps, training on rocks includes the smallest possible support points. That’s why short and dynamic forms of unprotected climbing require extremely precise footwear with high flexibility.
In bouldering, shoes with very aggressive geometry, supporting all techniques based on balancing and carrying the weight of the climber’s body, work best. Sharply finished toe, high sensitivity, soft rubber with the highest viscosity and a heel design that allows for relatively effective hooking are the features worth paying attention to. Some athletes prefer a split sole, allowing maximum flexibility and bending of the shoe at almost any angle at the expense of stable foot support.
Climbing wall
As a climber’s skills develop, the level of difficulty of the paths they choose during wall training increases. This is mainly related to the smaller and smaller sizes of the steps, so as you progress, it is worth choosing shoes with a more aggressive geometry and sharper tips. It is also worth paying attention to their rubber coating, which protects the feet from unfortunate hooks and impacts on larger steps.
If you're also interested in running shoes, check out these 5 ways to find your perfect pair.
.............
Sources:
https://8a.pl/8academy/jak-dobrac-buty-wspinaczkowe/
https://8a.pl/8academy/jakie-buty-do-boulderingu-w-czym-pokonywac-zyciowe-problemy/
https://www.polarsport.pl/jak_dobrac_buty_wspinaczkowe
https://kurswspinaczkowy.pl/porady/jak-dobrac-buty-do-wspinaczki/
https://www.theclimbingguy.com/how-to-choose-climbing-shoes/
https://www.climbingshoereview.com/how-to-choose-climbing-shoes/
https://climb2change.pl/jakie-buty-wspinaczkowe-kupic-porady/
https://outdoorsmagic.com/article/how-to-choose-climbing-shoes/